QUESTIONS
A pattern of a girl’s dress is provided. You are advised to study the sketches instructions and layout carefully before you begin the test.
Materials provided.
- Pattern pieces
- Bodice front
- Bodice back
- Skirt front
- Skirt back
- Sleeve
- Collar
- Cut out a crossway strip measuring 18cm long by 4cm wide.
- Plain light weight fabric 70cm long by 90cm wide.
- Cotton sewing thread to match the fabric.
THE TEST
Using the materials provided cut out and make the left side of the girl’s dress to show the following processes
- Making of the dart at the front bodice. (6 mks)
- Making of a shoulder seam using a double stitched seam. (8 mks)
- Making of the side seam on bodice and skirt using an open seam. (13 mks)
- Attaching of the bodice pieces to the skirt pieces using a plain seam and neatening half of the back using loop stitches. (10 mks)
- Preparation of the collar. (4 mks)
- Attaching of the collar using a crossway strip.. (13 mks)
- Making of an under arm seam using an open seam. (6 mks
- Preparation and attachment of the sleeve. Do not trim or neaten the seam allowance. (8 ½ mks)
OMIT
The management of the lower hem of the skirt and the sleeve
MARKING SCHEME
1. PRESENTATION
- Work well pressed(1) and folded ( ½ )
- Label( ½ ) firmly stitched ( 1 )without cancelling details ( ½ )and on a single fabric
- Pins/needles ( ½ )and unnecessary tacking threads( ½ ) and loose thread removed
- Made up for the left side
|
1 ½
2 ½
1 ½
1
|
|
|
6 ½
|
|
2. CUTTING OUT
- All eight pieces ( ½ x 8) cut out
- (b) smooth cutting of C.F of the bodice(1) and out on straight grain to within 3mm (1)
- Smooth cutting of the CB of bodice(1) and cut on straight grain to within 3mm (1 )
- Smooth cutting of CF of skirt
- Smooth cutting of CB of skirt
- Smooth cutting of the dress lower edge front(1) and back (1 )
- Smooth cutting of the sleeve edge
- Crossway strip cut on true bias
- Dress skirt cut on both front ( ½ ) and back ( ½ )
|
4
2
2
1
1
2
1
1
1
|
|
|
15
|
|
3. DART
- Straight stitchery(1) of dart and tapening to nothing ( ½ )
- Stitchery fastened at the point
- Correct length of the dart 7.5cm to within 2mm (7.3cm – 7.7cm)
- Correct width of dart 1.5cm to within 2mm (1.3cm – 1.7cm)
- Pressed towards CF
- Flatness of dart on W.S( ½ and R.S. ½ )
|
1½
½
1
1
1
1
|
|
|
6
|
|
1. SHOULDER SEAM-DOUBLE STITCHES
(if not double stitched awarded zero)
- First row of stitchery made with straight stitches
- Raw edges well tucked under
- Second line of stitchery made with straight stitches
- Evenness of seam(1 ) and correct size of 0.6cm to within 2mm(1) (0.4 cm – 0.8cm)
- Flatness of seam of on RS(1) on WS(1 )
- Fell facing back of dress
|
1
1
1
2
2
1
|
|
|
8
|
|
2. SIDE SEAM-OPEN SEAM (If not open award zero)
BODICE
- Joined with straight stitchery
- Raw edge well neatened ( 1 x2)
- Evenness of seam allowance
- Correct size of seam allowance 1cm to within 2mm (0.8-1.2cm)
- Seam pressed open and flat at the arm hole(1) and waist(1)
SKIRT
- Joined with straight stitchery
- Raw edge well neatened (1x 2)
- Evenness of seam allowance
- Correct size of seam allowance(1cm to within 2mm (0.8 – 1.2cm)
- Seam pressed open and flat at the waist
|
1
2
1
1
2
1
2
1
1
1
|
|
|
13
|
|
3. WAIST SEAM – PLAIN SEAM
- Joined with straight stitchery
- Evenness trimmed(1) and correct size(1 ) 1cm to within 2mm
(0.8cm- 1.2cm)
- Loop stitches(1) made on half back(1)
- Quality of loop stitches i.e evenly distributed( ½ ) correct tension ( ½ ) even length( ½ ) and worked using single thread ( ½ )
- Side seams meeting to within 2mm on R.S
- CB of bodice and CB of skirt flash ( ½ )
CF of bodice and C.F of skirt flash ( ½ )
|
2
2
2
2
1
1
|
|
|
10
|
|
1. COLLAR
- Smooth stitchery of edge of collar(mark by impression)
- Collar seam trimmed(1) and nipped( 1)
- Well knife-edge collar
- Collar attached by sandwiching in one dress and crossway strip
- Quality of attaching stitchery(mark by impression on R.S)
- Attaching seam trimmed (1) and snipped (1)
- Crossway strip held down with straight stitchery(1) and well tucked under (1)
- Evenness of the crossway strip
- Correct positioning of collar in CF of collar flash with CF of bodice(1) and CB of collar 1.5cm from cutting edge(1)
- Correct size(1) to within 5mm pattern)
- Collar lying flat on dress front ( ½ ) and dress back ( ½ )
- Cf of crossway strip and CF of bodice flash( ½ ) and C.B of crossway strip and CB of bodice flash ( ½ )
|
1
2
1
1
1
2
2
1
1
1
1
1
|
|
|
17
|
|
2. UNDER ARM SEAM – OPEN SEAM
- joined with straight stitchery
- raw edges well neatened
- evenness of seam allowance
- correct size of seam allowance 1cm to within 2mm
(0.8cm – 1.2cm)
- seam 0prssed op[en( ½ ) and flat ( ½ ) at the arm hole
|
1
2
1
1
1
|
|
|
6
|
|
1. SLEEVE
- good hang
- gathers(1 ) evenly distributed (1 ) at the crown ( ½ )
- arm hole made with straight stitchery
- arm hole seam neither trimmed( ½ ) nor neatened ( ½ )
- correct position i.e front notches and back notches( ½ ) matching
- under arm seam and side seam matching to within 2mm
|
1
2 ½
2
1
1
1
|
|
|
½
|
|
TOTAL
|
90
|
|
90 ÷ 2
|
45
|
|
CONFIDENTIAL
Provide Plain light weight fabric 70cm long by 90cm wide.