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Instructions To Candidates

Candidates must use machine stitches appropriately in the construction of the garment
Hand stitches used instead of machine stitches will not be marked
Hand stitches will only be allowed for the making of hemming and tacking stitches.
Candidates should answer the questions in English.

Questions

GIRL’S SKIRT
A pattern of a girl’s skirt is provided. You are required to study the sketches, instructions and layout carefully before you begin the test.

MATERIALS PROVIDED

Pattern pieces
1. Skirt back
2. Yoke (front)
3. Lower skirt (front)
4. Front waistband
5. back waistband
6. frill
Plain lightweight cotton fabric 56cm long by 90cm wide.
Sewing thread to match the fabric.
One large envelope.

THE TEST
Using the materials provided, cut out and make the left half of the girl’s skirt to show the following processes:

Cutting out (14mks)
Making of the dart at the back skirt ( 6 ½ mks)
Joining of the yoke front to the lower skirt front using an overlaid seam. Do not trim. Neaten half the seam using loop stitches. (12mks)
Attaching of the frill to the lower skirt front using a plain seam. Leave the gathering stitches and do not trim the seam allowance. (11mks)
Making of the skirt side seam from the yoke to the hemline using an open seam. (7mks)
Attaching of the front and back waistbands and holding them in place using tacking stitches. (21mks)
Making of the worked buttonhole. (12mks)

OMIT
The management of the skirt hem.
Overall presentation (6 ½ mks)

At the end of the examination, firmly sew onto your work, on a single fabric, a label bearing your name and index number. Remove the needle, pins and loose threads from your work. Fold your work neatly and place it in the envelope provided. Do not put scraps of fabric in the Envelope. Do not seal the envelope.

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Marking Scheme

Q	Area of Assessment	Max	Actl	Rmks
1	PRESENTATION a) Work well pressed (1) and folded (½ ) b) Label ( ½ ) firmly Fixed (1) without concealing details ( ½ ) and on single fabric ( ½ ) c) Pins /needles( ½ ) tacking thread ( ½ ) and unnecessary thread removed d) Made up for the Left half (1)	1½ 2½ 1½ 1
	Sub Total	6½
	CUTTING OUT a) All 6 pieces cut out 6x½ b) Smooth cutting of skirt back C.B 1x2 c) Straight grain of skirt C.B to within 3mm d) Smooth cutting of front skirt yoke CF 1x2 e) Straight grain of skirt C.F to within 3mm f) Smooth cutting of frills C.F 1x2 g) Straight grain of frills to within 3mm h) Smooth cutting of Front waist Band i) Smooth cutting of Back waist Band	. 3 2 1 2 1 2 1 1 1
	Sub Total	14
	MAKING UP The making of the dart at the back skirt a) Dart required length 4.6cm and width (7mm) b) Tapering to nothing at the end and no pockets c) Dart well reinforced d) Stitched from the wide side e) Flat at the waist Band ( ½ ) and facing towards (C.B) ( ½ ) f) Dart made on W.S( ½ )	. . 2 1 1 1 ½ ½
	Sub Total	14½
	JOINING OF THE YOKE FRONT TO HEM LOWER SKIRT FRONT: give zero if not over laid seam Skirt front yoke joined to the skirt with straight stitchery close to the fold. - Front seam allowance even - Yoke and skirt flash at C.F to within 3mm - Loop stitches - Neatening of half of the front seam with loop stitches. - Straight stitches - Correct tension - Evenness of stitches - Correct size of neatening 1 depth of loop 3mm to 0.5mm - Fastening ( reinforcing with Back stitches on both ends - Quality of work man ship	. . . 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
	Sub Total	12
	Attaching of the frill to the lower skirt front using a plain seam. (Leave the gathering stitches and do not trim the seam allowance.) - If not plain seam give zero - Frills attached with straight stitchery - Gathers evenly distributed (2) and gathering stitches not removed (1) - Seam allowance not trimmed - Frills of skirt flash at (C.F) Plain seam - Straight stitchery - Evenness of width - Neatening of Raw edges together - Correct tension	. . 2 3 1 1 1 . 1 1 1 1
	Sub Total	11
	Making of the skirt side seam from the yoke to the hemline using an open seam. - If not open seam give zero - Seam joined with straight stitchery ( 1 ½ ) and well secured at the waist Band (1/2 ) - Seam appropriately neatened (1x2) - Evenness of seam allowance ½ x2 - Correct width 1cm to within 2mm on either side (0.8cm – 1.2 cm ( ½ x 2) - Seam pressed open and flat at waist Band.	. 2 2 1 1 1 1
	Sub Total	7
	Attaching of the front and back waistbands and holding them in place using tacking – stitches - Front waist Band joined with back waist band. - Interfacing the front waist band and back Waist Band. - Straight stitchery of the joining seam. - Joining the waistband to the skirt front and skirt back using straight stitchery - Seam allowance evenly trimmed (2) and Raw edges of waist band neatly tucked under (1) using tacking stitches (1) - Eveness of width of waist band both on the W.S and R. S - Flatness (1) of waist band and well top stitched (1) and knife edged (1) TUCKING STITCHES - Correct stitches made - Good stitchery (1) straight stiching - Correct tension - Correct length and width 1cm to within 2mm	. 1 2 1 3 1 2 3 . 1 2 1 2
	Sub Total	21
	MAKING OF THE HAND WORKED BUTTON HOLE if not stitch award zero - Correct position (1) and size (1) of button hole - Button hole cut straight (1) and worked with single thread (1) - Button hole worked with even (1) and well distributed (1) button hole stitches Either - Round and worked with well distributed (1) button hole stitches (1) or - Square and completed with a bar (1) worked with even button hole stitches (1) - Raw edges concealed by the button hole on the right side - Flatness of button hole	. 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
	Sub Total	12
	Grand Total Marks	90
	Final Mark= Actual mark ÷ 2	45