A pattern of a child’s dress is provided. You are advised to study the sketches, instructions and the layout well before you begin the test.
MATERIALS PROVIDED:
Pattern pieces for the dress: A – Dress front B – Dress back C – Sleeve D – Cuff E – Pocket F – Cuff interfacing G – Sleeve opening binding
Plain light weight cotton fabric 70cm long by 90cm wide.
Cotton sewing thread to match the fabric.
THE TEST: Using the materials provided cut out and make the LEFT HALF of the child’s dress to show the following:
The working of the shoulder dart.
The preparation and attachment of the pocket.
The joining of the shoulder seam using a neatened plain seam.
The joining of the side seam using a neatened open seam.
The making of the bound opening of the sleeve.
The joining of the under arm seam using a French seam.
The preparation and attachment of an interfaced cuff.
The preparation and attachment of the sleeve, without trimming the seam allowance.
At the end of the examination, firmly sew onto your work, on a single fabric, a label bearing your name and index number. Remove the needles and pins from your work, and then fold your work neatly THE LAYOUT IS NOT DRAWN TO SCALE
Marking Scheme
PRESENTATION
TOTAL MARKS
ACTUAL SCORE
REMARKS
1
Work well pressed (½) and well folded (½)
Label firmly sewn on a single fabric
Unnecessary temporary stitches, threads and pins removed
Made up left half 1
1 1½ 1½ 1
5
2
Cutting out and graining
All the seven pieces cut out (Back, front, sleeve, cuff, cuff facing, opening strip and pocket) ½x7
CB smoothing cut (1) and straight grain to within 2mm(1)
CF smoothing cut (1) and straight grain to within 2mm (1)
Smoothing lower edge cut,
Bound opening strip cut on bias (1)
3½
2 2
1
10½
3
Pocket
Hem appropriately finished (raw edge well neatened)
Even width of the folded part 1
Pocket sides well tacked under 1
Pocket fixed with straight stitchery
Pocket stitchery pivoted at the corners (1/2×3)
Pocket mouth well reinforce (1/2×3)
Flatness of the pocket RS (1/2) and WS (1/2)
Size (1) and shape (1) of the pocket
Superimpose the pattern pocket to within 3mm
1 1 1 1 1½ 1½ 1 2 1
11
4
Shoulder dart
Straight stitchery (1) tapering to nothing (1/2)
Threads ends well fastened at the tip
Correct length of the dart (5 1/2 cm) to within 3mm measuring from first stitching line
Correct width of the dart (6mm) to within 2mm measured from first stitching line at shoulder seam.
Dart pressed towards CB and flat at the right side.
Flatness of the dart RS(1/2) and WS(1/2)
1½ 1 1 1
1 1
6½
5
Side seam (open seam) if not award zero
Joined with straight stitchery
Quality of neatening (1x2)
Flatness of the seam at the armhole RS 2
Evenness of the neatened seam allowance
1 2 2 2
7
6
Shoulder seam (plain seam)
Seam joined with straight stitching line
Well neatened raw edges (1/2×2)
Evenness of the neatened seam (1×2)
Flatness of the seam at the armhole RS(1/2) and WS(1/2)
1 1 2 1
5
7
Sleeve
Good hang
Well distributed gathers at the sleeve head
Dress and sleeve notches matching at front (1/2) and at the back (1/2)
Underarm seam (French) well – trimmed (i.e. no threads on RS)
Underarm seam made with straight stitchery
First stitching line made straight (1) mark by impression and seam well knife edged (1)
Evenness at the seam (1) width and appreciate size (1) of the width (0.6 – 1cm)
Seam pressed towards back at cuff (1/2) and arm hole(1/2)
Flatness of the seam at cuff(1/2) and armhole (1/2) WS(1/2) and RS(1/2)
Side seam and underarm seam meeting within 2mm
1 2 1 1 2 2
2 1 2 1
15
8
Sleeve cuff
Cuff interface
Well distributed gathers
Quality of cuff attachment (1/2 mark ) by impression the first stitching line
Quality of the neatening the cuff on the WS (raw edges well tucked under (1) and well stitched down (1)Cuff ends well stitched
(1x2) and knife edged (1x2)
Quality of the top stitching the cuff
Flatness of the cuff
Evenness of the cuff width
1 1 1 2
4 2 1 2
14
9
Sleeve opening
Quality of the attaching stitchery (mark by impression)
Quality of the neatening of the binding on the WS, that is raw edges neatly tucked under (1) and the quality of the stitches (1)
Evenness of the binding width
No gathers/ folds at the opening base.
Opening base reinforced
Binding ends concealed in the cuff. (1/2×2)
Binding ends appropriately organized at the cuff – overlap folded (1) to WS and the under lap left unfolded (1)
Binding edges and cuff edges flush (evenly aligned to within 2mm (1/2×2)
Flatness of the opening when lapped/closed.
1 2
2 2 2 1 2
2 2
16
TOTAL MARKS
(90/2)
1 2
2 2 2 1 2
2
2
2 16 TOTAL MARKS (90/2)
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